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Prague Without Plastic Wrap

Destination(s): Prague

It’s the general consensus among travelers that Prague’s center is more than just beautiful; it’s enchanting. Stories of intrigue surround Old Town Square. A painful history lives in the Jewish Quarter. The castle complex is almost overwhelmingly prodigious. In a city whose economy is hugely dependent upon tourism, though, the most-visited tourist areas obviously receive the most money and care. Locals don’t generally make their homes in these areas so, while they keep their beauty and history, they lose some authenticity. Prague is no exception. If you want to gain any understanding of Czech people, how they live, how they’ve been affected by that long, hectic history you learned about on your “Old Town Walking Tour,” you need to leave the plastic-wrapped city center, which has come to resemble a Disney World recreation more so than an actual city, and visit the living, breathing Prague that exists now. On your journey outside the box, you’ll still find stunning architecture, centuries-old sites, and twisted cobblestone streets but you’ll also find things that the sanitized center is missing: actual locals, Boho ex-pats, hard-working immigrants, scrumptious yet affordable meals, astoundingly cheap (and fresh!) beer, skillful graffiti, communist architecture, and bars bars bars. read more about Prague Without Plastic Wrap

Vysehrad Castle

Vysehrad Castle

  • V Pevnosti 159/5b
  • Vyšehrad National Cultural Monument
  • tel:+420 241 410 348
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 12800

Poised atop a hill, Vysehrad was the seat of Czech power for many years after its establishment in the mid-10th century. After losing its position to the Prague Castle, Vysehrad was left to fall into ruin. Now, there is still much to see in the area. The grounds form a massive and beautiful landscape, which contain the Gothic Church of Sts. Peter and Paul, the exceptionally old St. Martin Rotunda, the culturally-significant Vysehrad Cemetery, the Tabor Gate, and the ruins of a former fortification of the castle. As if that wasn't enough, an absolutely stunning view of Prague awaits here. Crumbled stone walls, gorgeous scenery, and outdoor sculpture make Vysehrad and enchanting place to visit. read more about Vysehrad Castle

Knihomola

Knihomola

Kava Kava Kava - Andel

Kava Kava Kava - Andel

The baby brother of the caf by the same name located in Prague 1, this incarnation definitely channels the first's funky mismatched dcor. Dimly cozy and accessibly eclectic, it's a great place to take a break at any time of day. For breakfast, you can go with a combo or order a la carte. Similarly, there's a lunch special on offer but this is only available during lunchtime on weekdays. As the name implies (kava = coffee), Kava Kava Kava's sizeable selection of specialty coffees is enough to please any caffeine fiend; you can even choose your size (small, medium, large – no fancy titles here). Plus, you can check your email on one of the terminals available in the back room. All in all, Kava Kava Kava is a great little coffee shop and this location might do it even better than the first. read more about Kava Kava Kava - Andel

Vysehrad Cemetery

Vysehrad Cemetery

  • V Pevnosti 159/5b
  • tel:420 241 410 348
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 128 00

Since its opening in 1869. the cemetery at Vysehrad has served as the final resting place for over 600 leading Czech cultural figures. Notable names include the composers Dvorak and Smetana, and the writers Karel Čapek, Jan Neruda and Božena Nĕmcov. The cemetery's centerpiece is the Slavin Monument, a striking common grave erected in 1894. About 50 great Czech artists are buried here, included the painter, Alfons Mucha, and the sculptor, Josef Vaclav Myslbek. Keeping in line with the artistic souls resting here, the gravestones themselves are a sight to behold. read more about Vysehrad Cemetery

Riegrovy Sady

Riegrovy Sady

  • Riegrovy Sady
  • tel:420222717247
  • Prague, 130 00

In a city that isn't heavy on grass, this park offers wide-open spaces, a great view of Prague Castle, a kid's playground, and a massive outdoor pub. Named after a 19th-century Czech politician, Reigrovy Sady was established in the early 1900's as an English-style public garden. There isn't anything particularly English about it, but that's part of its charm. Riegrovy Sady is full of locals on any given day, as long as the weather's nice. Stroll through the greenery and enjoy the view before enjoying a fresh Gambrinus beer and maybe some grilled meat in the pub. There's even a huge screen where sports can often be watched. read more about Riegrovy Sady

Boat Rental

Boat Rental

  • Slovanky Island
  • tel:+420 2 2171 4444
  • Prague, 110 00
Pizzeria di Carlo

Pizzeria di Carlo

  • Karlovo náměstí 30
  • tel:+420 222 231 374
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 120 00

A variety of Italian favorites can be found at di Carlo's; for those who know where to look. The casual vibe and full plates of food are waiting to be discovered in a small alley off Karlovo nměst. The beautiful garden, nice service and fine food make this a good value relaxed experience. Choose a wood-fired pizza, or a steaming plate of paste. Can't go wrong. read more about Pizzeria di Carlo

U Sadu

U Sadu

  • Skroupovo namesti 5
  • tel:420222727072
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 130 00

Walking into U Sadu is like walking into a junk shop. Relics from the communist-era litter the place. Fascination with the bizarre decor or the prospect of sitting in the summer patio out front might keep you upstairs, but keep in mind that billiards and access to the summer beer garden await below. At U Sadu, you can enjoy beer after beer without having to hunt down a waitress (even if that also means without a smile from the waitress) and have a hearty Czech meal off their eclectic menu. This completely enjoyable, authentic Czech experience is one you shouldn't pass up, especially if you're visiting the TV Tower just down the street. read more about U Sadu

Dog's Bollocks

Dog's Bollocks

  • Nádražní 82
  • tel:420 775 736 030
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 150 00

Although it can't exactly be called the dog's bollocks of Prague bars, due mostly to a reputation for spotty service (which it has made great strides towards changing), this restaurant/caf/bar keeps the crowds coming. Maybe it's the casual atmosphere. Or maybe its the huge variety of bottles behind the bar. Most likely, though, it's the fact that the Dog's Bollocks offers some of the most inspired pub food in Prague. When you step out of this sleek but low-key bar, you'll most likely have a pleased palate, slightly blurry vision, and a tip-not-left still in your pocket. read more about Dog's Bollocks

Karlovo Namesti

Karlovo Namesti

  • Karlovo náměstí
  • Nove Mesto
  • tel:+420 2 2171 4444 (Tourist Information Center)
  • Prague, 12000
Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov

Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov

Established in 1680 as plague burial ground for Prague's Jewish Community, the First Israeli Cemetery continued to be valuable when a ban on burials within the city began in 1987. Burials continued there until 1890, when the New Jewish Cemetery came into being. Although some 40,000 people rest here, it fell into a state of disrepair, even before the massive Zizkov TV Tower was built just above it. In 1998, the oldest parts of the cemetery became part of the Jewish Museum in Prague and, after extensive restoration work, it was opened to the public in 2001. Notable rabbis and leading Jewish entrepreneurs were laid to rest in this cemetery in addition to prominent members of the Enlightenment and contemporary Jewish intelligentsia. read more about Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov

U Buldoka

U Buldoka

Church of St. Ignatius

Church of St. Ignatius

  • Karlovo náměstí
  • Prague, 120 00
TV Tower

TV Tower

  • Mahlerovy Sady 1
  • tel:+420 242 418 778
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 130 00
Bertramka (Museum of W. A. Mozart and the Dušeks)

Bertramka (Museum of W. A. Mozart and the Dušeks)

Faust House/Faustuv dum

Faust House/Faustuv dum

  • Karlovo náměstí 40
  • Prague, 120 00
Manni Pakistani Restaurant

Manni Pakistani Restaurant

  • Seifertova 11
  • tel:420222511660
  • Prague, 130 00

Minimalist dcor and just plain good food come together in this Zizkov favorite. Everything is homemade, flavorful, and cheap. Because Czechs are pretty conservative when it comes to spice, dishes have been toned down quite a bit. However, if you like your food authentically smokin', Manni is happy to oblige. Service is friendly and the kitchen leaves no room for complaints, making this an absolutely perfect place to get some ethnic grub in one of Prague's liveliest areas. read more about Manni Pakistani Restaurant

Punto Azul

Punto Azul

MAT Studio

MAT Studio

  • Karlovo namesti 19
  • tel:420 2 2491 5765
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 12000
Staropramen Brewery

Staropramen Brewery

  • Nádražni 84. 150 54
  • tel:+420 257 191 402
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 150 00
Tancici Dum

Tancici Dum

  • Rasšínovo nábrezží 1981/80
  • tel:+420 2 2171 4444
  • Prague, 120 00
Bukowski's

Bukowski's

  • Bořivojova 86
  • tel:+420 774 530 689
  • Prague, 130 00

Ex-pats and the Czechs who love them pack into this comfy cocktail bar on weekend nights. Cozy fold-down theater seats and glass-bottle chandeliers help maintain a low-key, eclectic lounge feeling in this oddly carpeted drinking establishment whose name honors the American literary legend. The cocktails aren't always consistent when the crowd is particularly big but on a quieter night they're mixed to standard at fair prices. Get there early on weekends so you can get a good seat and enjoy a couple of quality cocktails before the crush starts to affect the mixes. If you're strapped for cash, stop by on Sunday evening between seven and ten for shockingly cheap beer (7 CZK!). A lively neighborhood bar attitude, lived-in style, and a dash of postmodernism give Bukowski's that special something that keeps locals coming back again and again. read more about Bukowski's

Church of St. Ludmilla

Church of St. Ludmilla

  • Námesti Míru (Peace Square)
  • tel:+420 2 2171 4444
  • Prague, 120 00
Doba

Doba

  • Náměstí Míru 16
  • tel:420222520330
  • Visit website
  • Prague, 120 00

A clean and cheerful cellar, with warm yellow walls and rich russet accents, Doba is a quietly comfortable restaurant. It offers an extensive selection of International favorites and Czech specialties, all inexpensive. Plus, the menu is just plain fun to read, owing to the creative titles and well-described dishes. It lends itself to any kind of night, from a family dinner to a modest date and always gives you exactly what you walk in there expecting: a sincerely enjoyable evening in a humbly pleasant place where simple dishes are delivered promptly to your table, usually with a friendly smile. read more about Doba

Cheers

Cheers

  • Belgicka 42
  • tel:+420 222 513 108
  • Prague, 120 00

Style-wise, this Cheers has nothing to do with that from the TV series and, since you're just visiting, it's safe to say that nobody is going to know your name. A cheerful drinking philosophy and casually upbeat atmosphere, though, invokes that warm, connected feeling that comes whenever you, glass raised, say the word, "cheers!" Unaffiliated to any brewery, something extremely rare in this town, Cheers offers a full range of beer and a variety of carefully concocted cocktails. The dcor, like the drinks, is neither fussy nor careless, as evidenced by the subtle yet flawless lighting. Vibrant and warm, Cheers' modern drinking ethos is clearly doing the trick as the bar is packed on most nights. read more about Cheers