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Guate Guate!
14 Comments

by
[email protected]
, 03-03-2010 at 01:55 PM (15126 Views)
Sunday, 2/21/10, our journey to Guatemala begins. Leave the house at 2am to drive to Newark International airport for the flight to Guatemala City. Finally arrive in Guate at 2pm in the afternoon - 1 night stay at the Howard Johnson's in Zona 9 Guatemala city - free shuttle from airport and breakfast included - not bad for $56 a night when you just need a 1 night stay in Guate City.



Monday - day 2 of our journey begins. The shuttle to Lake Atitlan arranged by Elizabeth Bell of Antigua Tours arrives right on time and once again our trip starts with a glitch, there was a teacher's stike and all roads in and out of Guate City are blocked - Elizabeth called and apologized for the delay - kudos to Elizabeth for her professionalism! After 1 1/2 hours, we are finally out of the city and on our way to the lake for our Luxury Link package at the Laguna Eco-Lodge. After a 2 hour drive we arrive at Panajachel where our Laguna Lodge boat is waiting for us....... a word about the boat... very small with unpadded seats and not much of a covering - it does the job but I am glad it was not raining and it was only a 15 minute boat ride! We arrive at the Lodge which is quite beautiful to see as you are pulling up to the dock, it is a bit of a climb from the boat to the dock and I would not recommend it to the physically challenged. Up the steps to the reception area where we are greeted by Juan Manuel the manager. A glass of papaya juice and a tour of the lodge follows (since this is a luxury lodge and the prices are steep - it would have been nice to have a welcome glass of wine and perhaps a plate of cheese or fruit). Laguna Lodge is a very beautiful place and I would definitly rate it A+ for location, decor and ambience - our room was beautiful and the views from our deck were stunning.



Here is a link to some of our 400 photos (we did video but still editing - will post later)




http://picasaweb.google.com/101267557724414214063/Guatemala2010#
We had breakfast included with our Laguna Lodge stay each morning - there were a few items to choose from, however for some odd reason, a glass of juice was extra - in every other place we have stayed a glass of juice was part of the included breakfast - just a little quirk here. We did not have lunch at the lodge but did take a look at the menu and there were quite a few choices that looked tempting. We had dinner included on one night - each night there is a set 4 course menu - soup, salad, main course and desert and the price is a little steep for Guatemala and vegetarian - $40 for each person. The night we had dinner the items were cream of spinach soup (excellent), a mixed greens and herb salad with a garlic and herb dressing - all organic and grownat their house which is a 10 minute walk away- again an excellent salad, vegetarian lasagna (I happen to like veggie lasagna, however, this was not a traditional one, it had a layer of pasta on the bottom and more like a veggie casserole on top which consisted of spinach, basil, cheese, tomatoes, black olives and other herbs again all organic and grown on site, however, I did not reallly like this particular one - the combo of spinach and basil had a strong taste but my husband loved it). The desert for that night was coffee tiramasu and again I did not eat it since I do not like coffee but my husband said it was really good. So I did not get much from my included dinner except for soup and a salad. My suggestion to Mayah and Jeffro (the owners) would be to have more selections on the dinner menu instead of 1 set thing for each night. Mayah realized that I had not eaten my meal and afterwards she said they could whip something else up but I was not sure if I would be charged $40 for it so I declined and I have to admit after looking at the set dinner menu for the other nights of the week, there was not really much that sounded especially appealing to me - but everyone has their own tastes and this is just not mine.I must add that the dinner presentation was excellent -candle light, flowers and a beautifully set table - service was excellent and their chef is quite creative.We had drinks with the other LL couple (and you know who you are) on the 1 night we were there together and the prices were not terribly expensive - a beer was around $3.00 and I had 2 banana daq. which were around $6.00 each. The rooftop deck and lounge had great seating areas and the views again were stunning. There is also a lounge area where you can watch movies, play cards, games, etc. After our dinner we sat and talked with Mayah and Jeffro for awhile and they are quite a pleasant couple and they are on the right track - with just a few tweaks, they will have a truly 1st class place. They do quite a bit for the local community and hire all indigenous staff from the local villages and encourage them to wear their local attire and speak their native language amongst themselves. They have a 100 acre nature reserve behind the property which we hiked a bit - the climb is very steep and the views are stunning and the trail is fairly well maintained. They support local eye care for the population and do quite a bit in this area - they have paid for many eye operations for the local villagers and we plan on sending them some old eyeglasses we have that can be re used for the villagers. Expansion is in progress and there are plans for a possible spa with massages, etc. on site. They do have a hot tub which we did not use because it was $35 per use for up to 4 people - we do not know if that was $35 for each or $35 for 4. We thought that should have been included at a luxury lodge, however, on further research from checking out other hotels on that side of the lake, we discovered that all the properties nearby also charge $35 and we asked and found out that power costs are very high so I can understand the reasoning behind this, however, the other hotels in the area charge quite a bit less per night. Mayah and Jeffro are committed environmentalists which is rare in this area and I applaud their efforts. As I mentioned earlier, they are on the right track - the place has only been in operation for a little over 1 year and with some minor pricing adjustments and menu adjustments could be a destination that visitors staying at other places on the lake will want to visit and have dinner and drinks there. They did have kayaks but again it was quite pricey to use them - I think they should have been included in the room rate.They want to stay a fairly small and somewhat exclusive resort but they need to do more to keep their guests on the property. The public boats do stop at Laguna Lodge's dock and you can take them to any village around the lake. The lodge does have their own boat, however, it was expensive to use it, especially for the 15 minute boat ride to Panajachel - the public boats to Pana were Q10 per person and Laguna charged Q200 for the same trip - OK if you like a private boat but we like to take the public boats for the local flavor they provide. Just an aside - we did experience 2 eathquakes on the same day - 1 at 5:30am and the 2nd stronger one around 9:30am (magnitude 5.6)- the lodge rattled a bit but all was OK.
We walked the trail from the lodge to Santa Cruz and went to the Iguana Bar/hotel - very helpful folks working there - they hire a lot of international backpackers to work there for a week or two in exchange for free room and board. We continued down the trail to the Isla Verde hotel where we had lunch and the food was very good with friendly staff and excellent views of the lake. Large food portions and inexpensive prices.
We went on a lake tour with Lee from Kayak Guatemala with our LL friends - he took us around the whole lake and we visited the village of San Juan de la Laguna. Lee is a wonderful and interesting tour guide and we highly recommend him. While in San Juan we visited a women's weaving cooperative with an informative demonstration on their weaving techniques from start to finish. Lee also took us to a great little local restaurant for lunch, saw local schools and had a visit to a local medicinal herb garden where the woman told us what each plant was used for. A very clean and quaint village.
On our own we visited the village of San Pedro which is a quirky, hippy type of village which we were told was the place where you could buy "special" medicinal products if you get my drift! Quite the interesting place. We had lunch at the Burrito Factory which is owned by an American ex-pat - you could build your own burritos and they were very tasty and inexpensive.
On to Antigua....we were picked up in Pana by Antigua Tours and on our way to the Casa Concepcion. When we arrived at Casa Concepcion, we were greeted by Julio the hotel manager who in my opinion is one of the greatest hotel managers I have come across. He has spent many years in the USA and his English is excellent and he was born and raised in Antigua and knows everything about the town and it's history. Elizabeth Bell has certainly got a treasure in Julio! Casa Concepcion is a cute bed and breakfast that used to be a private home and now has 4 rooms and an apartment with plenty of areas both inside and out to sit and relax. Breakfast is included (juice too) and is delicious - great pancakes and never ending coffee and tea! Free use of the internet and some additional services at no charge. Kudos to Julio and all the staff at Casa Concepcion for making us feel like it was our home! We had a great view from our private balcony ofFuego volcano and one morning we got to see a minor eruption - looked pretty cool with the ash cloud coming out the top. We visited the Antigua Tours office and met Elizabeth Bell - very nice person and a pleasure to work with. We were able to use the computer at Antigua Tours to check in and print out our boarding passes the day before we were to leave at no extra charge.
Antigua is gearing up for Semana Santa and we were lucky enough to be there on a Sunday for one of the Lenten processions - this was a small procession but we were still very impressed by the carpets on the street and the air of celebration throughout the city - I can only imagine how impressive Semana Santa must be.
Then on March 2nd, it was time to go home ;-( - again Antigua Tours was right on the money withtheir shuttleto pick us up and take us to the airport.
This was our 4th visit to Guatemala and we will certainly go back - there is still so much to see and do!
Happy Travels to all
Denise and Jeff

Message Edited by [email protected] on 03-04-2010 12:40 PM
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Comments

  1. Mountie's Avatar
    Thanks for posting your comments on Laguna Lodge and especially the link to your photos.



    Maybe it is just the way I have read your material, but to me. it doesn't sould like you have give FIVE STARS to this resort?
  2. dhdanner@verizon.net's Avatar
    I would give it 5 stars for the location, ambience and decor. Since I feel there still needs some tweaking I would give it3 1/2 and maybe 4 stars for menu choices and services that I feel should be included.

    Denise
  3. bonniejoy03's Avatar
    H D....Great post. I sent a thank you to Elizabeth for her great coordination of the trip. Good feedback on Laguna. It is sometimes hard to explain. Great meeting you and looking forward to meeting up again....Happy Trails!!
  4. Mountie's Avatar
    denise, you are almost candid, but not quite in your reference to tweaking. Would you spell out the services you feel Laguna should include? One of the reasons I spend time reading and sharing observations and opinions in this community is to define and determine specifics regarding destinations and properties.



    I can understand menu choices and the difficulties involved, if one is not pleased with the selections or preparations, especially, if the property is somewhat isolated, thereby limiting the ability to go to other restaurants nearby.



    Honestly, it seems like you had an enjoyable visit, but there seems to be several issues regarding the lodge which you are not openly discussing.



    Thank you.
  5. dhdanner@verizon.net's Avatar
    We did have an enjoyable visit, the place is quite beautiful and peaceful. On their list of services they say they have kayaks and snorkeling equipment- but at a price and it was a bit expensive - most resorts that have these kinds of services include them for free. They do have a beautiful lounge as I mentioned that you can go in and watch movies on a big screen TV - one night we came back around 7pm and decided we would sit in there and see what movies they had - the room was locked and there was no staff around so we just sat on our deck and relaxed that night. The bar was dark and there was no one around - the staff have quarters somewhere inthe back of the resort, so I suppose we could have gone looking for someone but guests should not have to do that. When the owner realized that I did not enjoy my meal and offered to whip something else up - she should have specified "at a charge or no charge" I suppose if there were more people there, the bar would have have been lit up and there would have been other guests in there, however, on the one night that BonnieJoy and her husband and Jeff and I went to the bar, it was dark and we had to go looking for someone to get us drinks - it is a bit strange to have to look for someone when you need something at a resort. Maybe their philosophy is to leave their guests alone to enjoy the tranquility - not really sure. Most luxury resorts that I have stayed in seem to have someone always around to see if you need anything but this place does not. One night we were walking around and wandered into the dining room and they must have motion sensors, since a woman came out and somewhat rudely asked "can I help you?" turns out it was the owner - this was I think our 2nd or 3rd night there and we were the only guests at the time since BonnieJoy had checked out - she should have realized who we were but I had to introduce myself and she just said "nice to meet you" and went back through the door to I guess their apartment. We did not see her again until our last night and shewas friendly then but that was also the night we had our dinner so I guess she wanted to see what our reaction was. And there was just some little things as I mentioned - for a 15 minute boat ride to Pana they wanted Q200 and the public boat was only Q10, for the laundry service, for example, they wanted Q10 for 1 pair of underwear, which is a little over $1 -I did photgraph their booklet which has all the prices for their services - I can send as an email attachment to anyone who would like to see it - I did not want to include it in my public photo album. Again, a beautiful place but service needs to be improved a bit as well as the menu adjustments that I have mentioned. Keep in my mind that this has just been open for 1 year and they did seem genuinely interested in our opinions on how to improve some things.
  6. Mountie's Avatar
    Denise, thank you for spelling out the "good" and the "bad" regarding this property. I have a feeling if I do travel to Lake Atitlan, I would probably better suited to stay at Casa Palopo. The other community reviews on that property seem more in keeping with my style.
  7. dhdanner@verizon.net's Avatar
    I did forget to mention in my story, that on 1 night of our trip, we ran into a bunch of ex-pats living around the Lake who were having an art show party and they invited us - we hung aroung abit, bought a beautiful photo from one of the artists and had a great time listening to stories about living in Guatemala - many said they would never go back to the states, some live there full time and some 1/2 of the year - a very interesting group of folks and some talented artists!

    Denise
  8. omegaet's Avatar
    Denise, thank you for posting such an in depth review on Laguna.



    We enjoyed the couple of treks we took around this section of Lake Atitlan during our last visit. We felt a little different vibe and a little more free spirit from the people we met.



    Sounds like you had time, in spite of the couple of issues with the hotel.



    re: the ex-pats positions on living there full time...can't say we share the same feelings.
  9. bonniejoy03's Avatar
    Denise. A very fair portrayal of the property and our experiences. I believe there are opportunites with Laguna. Other guests who were staying there while we were there also expressed the same concerns. Most of the others were world travellers.



    It was great to have the "summit" with you at Laguna and hope to do so again in the future!!
  10. showard1's Avatar
    Denise, Thanks for the wonderful photos of your visit to Lake Atitlan. I could relate to a lot of them, since we were there (LL auction, Casa Palopo) last Fall. My efforts at photography weren't so successful, however--



    Sounds like you spent a lot of time in the Santa Cruz area. Did you hike up to the village of Santa Cruz (away from the lakefront)? We missed that part of the lake on our last trip, but hope to explore it during our next visit in April. Lee toured us around on his pontoon boat, and we ended up spending most ofthe time in San Juan. It's such a beautiful village and definately a model to be emulated throughout the region, when and if, huh? While in San Juan, did you have lunch at Comedor Elenita? Certainly one of our favorites and clean, clean, clean. Such pride is taken to impress visitors, not only with the standard of hygiene, but also, the quality of the food. They really know how to prepare chicken -- the best!



    You didn't mention Maximon. Has his humble abode moved from Santiago? What a trip that was!



    Looking forward to our Guatemala jaunt next month. Only this time, we're on our own -- no LL packages. Will be staying at Hotel Atitlan in Pana and Palacio Dona Leonor (for one night) in Antigua. Can't wait!



    Any advicefor exploring inthe Santa Cruz/Jaibalito areas? The good, the bad,or the ugly?



    Muchas gracias.
  11. dhdanner@verizon.net's Avatar
    We did spend about 1 1/2 days just walking around the Santa Cruz/Jabilto/San Marcos area - you can walk to all of these from Laguna Lodge. We did not do Santiago on this trip since we had been there 2x before, however, there is Maximon in San Juan which Lee took us all to on our day trip around the lake - we made our offerings - a bit more sedate than the Santiago one. Lee took us to a little local restaruant in San Juan but I can not remember the name - it may have been this one - clean and really good food. Loved San Juan and also liked San Pedro - we ate at the Burrito factory in Pedro and they were really good and big for a little over 20Q.

    I just recommended Hotel Atitlan & Dona Leonor to a friend who is thinking of going to Guate for her 1st visit with her husband - we checked them out while in Atitlan and antigua and both looked worthy of staying in. Not much in Santa Cruz or Jabilto but it was fun just to walk there and see the folks - they don't seem to get many visitors since we seemed to be the only foreigners and got lots of looks but everyone was friendly. Dockside Santa Cruz there a some nice places to hang out - Iguana Bar (folks that work here are very friendly and helpful - they hire a lot of backpackers for a week or 2 for free room & board and we sat there for awhile drinking tea and coffee and speaking to some of the "volunteer" staff) , Isla Verde has great food, Casa Rosa - we did not eat here but did go in and check the place out - woman who owns it is very friendly and she was able to change $ to Q for us, Cafe Arca No - we did not eat here but wandered through their gardens (they have a beer garden and it was packed in the afternoon with locals, visitors and ex-pats downing the brews!) All in all a great visit and we can not wait to go back!

    D
  12. dhdanner@verizon.net's Avatar
    Omegat - what are your feelings on the ex-pats - the ones we met were pretty much all artists and many were into "smoking", drinking and having fun - they were all dressed as their favorite artist for the party and all said they loved living most or all of the time in Guate - and these were folks who were definitly on the far side of 50 years old. Although, I did get the impression from all but 1 of them, that they do not mix regularly with the Guatemalans and that the ex-pat community seems to more or less hang out with each other. 1 or 2 of them actually lived up in Santa Cruz while the others live on the hillside closer to the lakefront.

    I know if I lived there, I would want to have Guatemalans as friends as well as other foreigners who lived there

    Denise
  13. bonniejoy03's Avatar
    S...We loved the Santa Cruz area. I would recommend eating/drinking at Arca de Noe. It is owned by a German/Austrian Couple. Each evening, they have a 6 course dinner for 80q!!! We had lunch, dessert, and drinks there. Great prices and great conversation. Anne recommended some villages to visit that do not see as much tourism. We took the tuk-tuks to San Pablo. No tourism there. What an experience. Also in Santa Cruz, try Isla Verde for another great restaurant with views. We had drinks in the evening at Iguana Perdida. Really enjoyed the Santa Cruz area. And of course, Elaine's place (Lee's wife) for a great massage! In Jaibalito, Lee took us to Hans place. He makes his own coffee from bean to cup so we bought some coffee there. He is also involved in helping the community. Ask Lee.....Have fun!! (ps-don't forget treats for Zip!)
  14. omegaet's Avatar
    denise, my "ex-pat" comments?



    I don't understand going to the efforts of living in another country and then spending most or all of your time recreating your own community, speaking your own language and a failing to assimilate - - at least to some degree.



    I understand the "comforts" and "collegial" aspects of such actions, but I can't reconcile the logic. But, then, logic is not always a driving force with many people.



    I'm not being "critical" of those choices, I just don't get it.



    On the other hand, I haven't spent much time in a hallucinogenic haze, with the exception of an ocassional visit to my dentist.

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