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Santiago, Chile
13 Comments

by
omegaet
, 02-21-2008 at 10:52 AM (110042 Views)
On our way to Patagonia (Chile and Argentina), we decided to break the flight and to spend a day and night in Santiago before heading further south and another three nights in Santiago before flying back to Miami.
For years, we avoided Chile**, but decided it was time to go.
Using Marriott Reward points, we reserved a room at the Santiago Marriott (points are more fun to spend than money). On-line booking was a snap and our one bedroom corner suite (thanks to Platinum upgraded accommodations) ready when we arrived, offered courtesy breakfast in lounge on 23rd floor while our suite was readied and bags retrieved.
The Santiago Marriott is located in Las Condes, an upscale residential neighborhood with broad tree lined boulevards, offering a variety of fine and casual dining opportunities and a modern shopping center right next door, if needed.
With 6.5+ million residents, the center city of Santiago is congested with vehicle traffic and suffers periodically from air pollution similar to LA smog at times..being removed from the inner city and catching a frequent breeze sweeping down from the Andes, makes Las Condes a better choice.
In the late afternoon, after a short nap, we walked several blocks to the Ritz-Carlton for a light lunch at the much touted Wine 365 http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Santiago/Dining/Wine365/Default.htm and for a chance to taste of some premium Chilean wines, including a 2003 Almaviva (95 points in Wine Spectator) Over 365 Chilean wines
may be ordered by the glass,
affording the opportunity to enjoy a variety without buying a full bottle.



After tasting an
03 Almaviva, we decided to schedule a private tasting at the winery on our return trip back through Santiago.
The Almaviva Winery is a collaborative effort of the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild of Mouton Rothschild in France and Concha Y Toro (much along the lines of the collaboration with Mondavi which has produced the much heralded Opus One in Napa Valley).
We will be posting more information in a wine blog later regarding our visit and tasting experience.

Santiago boasts a long and colorful history, since being founded in 1541 by the Spanish conqueror, Pedro de Valdivia.
The center city buildings and neighborhoods are a mixture of Spanish Colonial architecture and various periods of European architecture.
However, we found the Bellas Artes neighborhoods, filled with cafes, museums, great little book shops, and a variety of gourmet food shops both appealing and entertaining.


We decided to take a walking tour with a Liz Caskey, an American expatriate now living in Santiago, who operates a private guide service and write articles for magazines and newspapers http://www.lizcaskey.com/

Over a period of five or six hours, we talked and walked through neighborhood markets, buying fresh produce, local cheeses, purchased freshly made breads and stocked up on several flavor of extraordinary ice cream from one of her favorite shops.
We returned to her spacious apartment overlooking the park and the Palacio Bellas Artes and assisted her in the preparation of a three course gourmet lunch (prepared from the products we had just purchased).
While we waited for our
Humitas(Chilean tamales) to warm up, we enjoyed a freshly prepared pisco sour, tasted small batch goat cheese snacks seasoned with Chilean merquen http://www.etnia.cl and helped in the kitchen as sous-chefs. Liz, who is also an accomplished sommelier (having written numerous articles for in-flight magazines and travel periodicals) , paired our meal, which began with a cold avocado and yogurt soup, with a fresh crisp Chilean sauvignon blanc.
Lunch was delightful and the conversation, insights of living in Chile and general banter was even better.

If youre looking for nightlife, head for the Bellavista neighborhood dark (well, it doesnt get dark until around 10:00PM in January), great little restaurants of most ethnic persuasions are prevalent..and we suggest:

Cocoa
Jose V. Lastarria 297
562.632.1272


Although a Peruvian restaurant, locals and expats alike consider Cocoa a great place to dine..as did we!
Pubs and clubs are loaded, sidewalks are clustered with outside dining and all of the small boutique shops are open for business.
One concept we couldnt quite grasp is unique to Santiagoit is called "
caf con piernas" http://archive.salon.com/travel/wlust/2000/05/05/piernas/print.html[/i]Although we didnt visit one of the coffee shops, those we walked by seemed to be doing a bang up business.busier than our corner Starbucks back in the US.

If you happen to be in need of a private guide, consider contacting Hector Medina.
He offers the garden variety of tours of Santiago, Valparaiso, Vina del Mar and Casablanca Valley Wine Tours.
More importantly, he is an independent operator with his own van (new and clean), speaks exceptional English and communicates quickly via Internet.
He is available to tailor his services to your specific needs and desires rather than fixed routes on a bus or crowded van with other tourists.


We used his services for airport transfers, transportation to a couple of specific vineyards we wanted to visit and a driving and walking tour of Santiago of sights we specifically wanted to see.
His motto is Flexibility and he means it.his rates are very competitive.
Great value for money spent.

Hector Medina
Very Personal & Private Tour Service.
[email protected]
56-09-8 9002248 (24 hrs)

Were looking forward to returning to Santiago in the near future..maybe well even stay at the Marriott again.especially if our points total continues to hold out!
**Given the political climate of Chile from the early 70s until 1990, we shied away.
During the dictatorial rule of General Augusto Pinochet, we had no interests in traveling to the country (although tourism was possible and even encouraged). History has recorded more than 3,200 people being executed or having disappeared, and scores of thousands more being detained and tortured or exiled during the Pinochet years.
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Comments

  1. travel2fun's Avatar
    omegaet, enjoyed your observations and suggestions on Santiago. The Liz Caskey web site looks very, very interesting. How did you find out about her? Also, why did you allow the Pinochet matter to enter into your thought process regarding travel to Chile? Lastly, are you certain you didn't have a cup of coffee with legs?
  2. bonniejoy03's Avatar
    Loved your article. We have never been to Chile but have always considered it. Did you take notice of any small/boutique properties? How were the prices for meals? How was safety? How was the weather this time of the year? How far was the flight from Santiago to Patagonia? How was Patagonia????? Thanks!
  3. jsattapr2's Avatar
    t-2-f, even I can figure out the answer to omegaet's travel reluctance during the Pinochet days (executions have never been a tourism highlight for me)!
  4. claassenam's Avatar
    Thanks for the Santiago write-up Omegaet, I noticed from another post you made that you really enjoyed your trip to South America. I am most interested to hear about your time in Patagonia...please keep posting!
  5. omegaet's Avatar
    t-2-f...we found Liz Caskey by doing some Internet searches "private guides Santiago" and "wine guides Chile," after visiting her web site and reading several of the article she has written, we thought it might be fun to spend the day with her. Regarding the Pinochet matter, we simply moved Chile down our list of places to visit...made no sense to us to travel to a country with that type of leadership. Enough time has past, the new president is a very progressive female and Chile is a great tourist destination. No, didn't visit one of the "coffee with legs" establishments, although, it probably would have been interesting!
  6. omegaet's Avatar
    bonniejoy03....Santiago and the other cities we visited in Chile are loaded with large, medium and small hotels. There are also a variety of remote properties(desert, coastal and working ranches-estancias) that welcome tourists. The dollar still goes a long way in Chile and the prices are quite reasonable compared to Europe. Of course, we are vegetarians, but our meat eating friends endjoyed the steak, lamb and seafood they were served. Safety was never an issue, even walking the city streets of Santiago during the evening (like any place in the world, common sense should prevail). Being south of the equator, the seasons are reversed...in Santiago we enjoyed warm days in the 80s and cooler evening in the 60s. The flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas takes 3.5 hours aboard a Lan A320....excellent service. We'll write about Patagonia in another posting.
  7. travel2fun's Avatar
    omegaet, I visited Liz Caskey's web site and could not locate a rate schedule for her services. Do you mind telling us what shed charge you? South America is a probably destination for me and a friend this year and Chile could the place. I'm not really looking for anothe big city with museums, etc., etc. What about your experiences outside of Santiago what else did you find of interest?
  8. lhbrown's Avatar
    Hi O,
    I enjoyed reading about your trip to Santiago, Chili, especially your account of Liz Caskey's walking tour with her preparing lunch for you at her apartment at the end of the tour. That sound right down my alley... something I would enjoy... Are you planning another VIP blog on Patagonia? I would much like to hear about your experience there.
  9. jsattapr2's Avatar
    omegaet, did you buy the H20 package here on luxury link? What was it like staying in a tent, how was the white water rafting? Was it difficult to get to the location from Santiago?
  10. omegaet's Avatar
    lhb....we will be writing a couple of blogs on Patagonia.
  11. omegaet's Avatar
    j-s-2....we didn't buy or use the H2o package offered here on LL. We considered the H2o package and this is probably the best time of the year (weather wise) to stay in tents. We could not fit the H2o package into our travel plans. We saw lots of white water opportunities and lots of outfitters offering the service, but once again, our plans did not call for those activities.....we spent most of our time trekking in the national parks. We used air transportation whenever possible, just to save time....driving from location to location and eat up valuable hours (six - eight - ten....even twenty four hour drives are the norm to get around to many of the locations...it's a large area and many roads are not paved).
  12. curtiejoe's Avatar
    Hi O

    Your extensive post on Santiago is very enjoyable and interesting as it's filled with details of your personal experiences in the Chilean capital. as I read your post, I was struck by the parallels in your description with Peru's capital city Lima. It too is very bustling, suffers from heavy air pollution from the millions of cars, trucks and buses that ply its avenidas. thankfully, in Lima you also get the occasional refreshing breeze off the nearby, lofty Andes. This helps make the city livable. as in Santiago, the Marriott Hotel in Lima's Miraflores section is one of the premier establishments in Peru (I believe you've also stayed there before, if I'm not mistaken). Coincidentally, my sister who's lived in Lima for near 30 years just returned with her husband from an extensive trip through Argentina and Chile (they too spent some time in Santiago and loved it).

    Curt
  13. omegaet's Avatar
    curtiejoe...we stayed at the O-E Miraflores in Lima, but we did stop by the casino one evening at the Marriott (I think you said your nephew works at the Marriott
    property).

    Our impressions of Santiago vs Lima are the former has a more "European" feel and character than the latter. Possibly
    because the wealthy decendant families
    of the
    original Spanish founders
    were encouraged to travel to Europe
    were influenced by the various cultures and archecture.

    We enjoyed both cities and
    have encouraged friends and associates to schedule holidays in both.

    Santiago
    is very "affordable" these days for Europeans and still a good bargain for those of us coming there from North America as well.


    Message Edited by omegaet on 03-30-2008 01:45 PM

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