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Tracking Gerenuks...
9 Comments

by
omegaet
, 03-13-2008 at 08:29 AM (127391 Views)
Of the wild animals we have seen and photographed over the years, none have seemed more illusive than Gerenuks. We had our ground operator do some research and we learned recent sightings had been made in Meru, Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Parks in Northeastern Kenya.

What was so special about this graceful gazelle like antelope...their long limbs and (almost llama-like) necks, their smallish and sleek heads (when compared to the size of their bodies), their large soft eyes and beautifully long lashes? Or is it their unique eating habitsstanding on their hind legs and nibbling the tender leaves on middle branches of trees?

Nope, just wanted get some good photographspure and simple.

For five days, we camped at Samburu National Park and Buffalo Springs National Parks.

During our first couple of days, wesaw Reticulated Giraffes, Grevy's Zebras, Elephants, Oryx, Somali Ostrich, Hippos, a few Crocodiles, Buffaloes, Lions, Leopards, Cheetahs and Hyenas.but no Gerenuks!

Our guide suggested tracking on foot. We got permission from the Park Supervisor and hired two armed park rangers to accompany us. Since predators, we were told; were active most mornings..we thought the two armed rangers were more a necessity than luxury as we did not wish to be eaten for breakfast!

One of the rangerssaid we would trek along approved trails and try to located fresh Gerenuk guano (all of that stuff basically looked the same lying in the dirt.some a little biggersome a little smaller.but pretty much the same to us). That trail ran parallel to the river and near several large stands of Acacia trees.

The Plan:Arrive early, park our Land Rover, hike to the river, find concealment and wait. After a houror so passed and we heard some noisesand saw some movements in distant grasses.

Gerenuks?

The ranger pointed to a troop of Olive Baboons (Papio cynocephalus anubis) moving along the bank. He said they were forging forfood and frequently passed through this area. Must have smelled us -they halted; stood erect and stared our way..so much forconcealment (we couldnt even hide from Baboons)!

Were the Baboons going to be a problem for us, I asked the ranger. No, he informed me they are lazy scoundrels and hooligans that steal food from camps and lodges. Baboons are omnivores," he said, selective feeders (umh, did selective include a taste of Homosapiens)preferring grasses and leaves, roots, berries, seeds, blossoms, bits of bark and bugs and small animals (we felt much safer).

He told us to be quiet and the Baboons would ignore us and move along (I wondered how much he really knew about BaboonsI had wondered earlier if hehad live ammunition for the old rifle he carried).

I pulled out my binoculars and decided to watch the troop for a while; figuring the rangers would alert us if any Gerenuks showed. Several of the female Baboons had young ones and were caring for them while the males and other females busily forged about for le petit dejeuner.

There was one female in particular whowas mostattentive to her young one. I wascaptivated by therelationship between the two of them; watching helped pass the timeas we remainedGerenuk-less.

The sun got hotter andI was tiring of the bugs biting my legs and arms.

I continued to focus my binoculars on the one female; fascinated by her tolerance of her frisky young one. He wanted to play and scamper about and kept trying to pull free, but she never allowed him to venture too far.usually not more than an arms length or so. She persisted in holding him in tow. She clung to the squirming and rambunctious little guy. He rolled about and vocalized his displeasure at being tethered by his Mom.but she would have no part of his scampering away on his own.

To settle him, she picked him up by his neck, softly began to preen him, stroked his tiny head and rubbed his little back as she encouraged him suckled her. He settled down and they both sat quietly as I stared in amazement at how attentively she delivered nurturing care.

I couldnt think of a more caring mother, human or otherwise.totally focused on the needs of her young one, disregarding, to a great extent, her own personal safety and even apparently oblivious to the prying eyes of her human observer. What a compelling and tender scene in such a potentially hostile and dangerous environment.

I picked up my Nikon, focused on the two of them and squeezed off a few frames.

Suddenly, our guide poked my shoulder, pointed in the other direction and whispered, Gerenuks!

It was a good day; five Gerenuks cautiously strolled around the cluster of Acacia trees, and one by one gracefully rose on their hind legs and munched away on those tender green leaves. I steadied the Nikon, focused tightly on one ofmy newly discovered treasures and got the money shots I had been waiting for!



After watching and photographing the Gerenuk for a while, I turned around to see what the Baboons were doing..they had already moved on and were no longer in sight.

Weeks later, after returning home, we spent hours sorting through and editing our safari photos. Many of the pictures exceeded our expectations, including those taken of the Gerenuks. They are now all filed away and backed up on our external hard drive to be viewed occasionally with friends.

Only one exception; I made a print of the female Olive Baboon andyoung oneand still keepit in a small frame on a bookcase shelf in my office.



In theglobal sense, it is just another picture of two wild animals, struggling to survive another dayalong a dusty river bank in a remote part of East Africa. The scene is likely repeated thousands of times daily around the world!

However, that moment, for me,captureda great deal ofintensityand theimage stillevokes special feelings when I look at it.

Thepicture reminds meof the importance of Motherly Love and Tender Care..qualities I consider so important to a new life. all new lives for that matter, regardless of the speciesno matter how difficult or comfortable the surroundings!











Message Edited by omegaet on 03-13-2008 12:30 PM
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Comments

  1. CMDAVILACLI's Avatar
    omegaet,
    what a great story! I have longed to go on safari, and your wonderful description reinforces my desire!
    cmdavilacli
  2. claassenam's Avatar
    Great story Omegaet - very touching photo of the baboons. I'm curious about the Gerenuk - will you repost the photo again? Like CMDAVILACLI, this has inspired me to go on safari!
  3. omegaet's Avatar
    CMDAVILACLI & claassenam...East African safaris are great. As we are certain you have read from jashermd's SA postings (he is an obvious and frequent fan of safaris), being out with the animals and the general environmentis "special."

    In our experience and opinion, the more remote destinations (at least withvisits to East Africa), the more interesting the trips can be.....also, a lot fewer visitors disturbing the animal sightings and "dusting up" the horizons.

    We have friends who recently returned from trekking in the Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda and shared some of their fabulous photographic work of the great Silverbacks.

    We still have Rwanda and Gorilla Trekking on our "Life List."

    claassenam...we sent you a PM for clarification regarding the Gerenuk photo question......see if you can this this shot of a different Gerenuk:









    Message Edited by omegaet on 03-13-2008 07:29 PM
  4. christian07's Avatar
    nice interesting post youve got here! going to safari is on my top travel list.
    I love the last part showing how these animals are trying to survive.
  5. omegaet's Avatar
    christian07....wild animals have struggles all over the world.....we continue to increase human populations, take over and destroy more of their natural environments and they end up with shrinking ecosystems.

    We're not "hugging trees" with this opinion, we're just observing real trends. If you want to see these "natural wonders" in their own settings, get out and get it done soon! Otherwise, wait in lines at your local zoos or look for their pictures under extinct species!
  6. jashermd's Avatar
    Nice story! I had the pleasure of seeing a gerenuk in Taragire National Park in Tanzania -- they really are cool looking animals. There's nothing like seeing animals in their natural environment to make you realise how special they are.

    If you want to go on a safari where you rarely see another soul, go to Botswana -- it's not cheap, but the government's high cost-low volume tourism policy has kept the wilderness pristine and prevented the crowds of white vans which have overrun the Serengeti and Masai Mara.
  7. omegaet's Avatar
    jashermd....yes, Botswana is also on our list....after, Samburu, we moved further north and east to Meru, which proved to be a great opportunity for game viewing, even though it had experienced devastating poaching from bandits out of Somali in the 80s.

    In 1999 and into the early 2000s, a process of re-introduction has substantially improved the numbers of Elephants, Kudu, Buffalo, Leopard, Lions and both Black and White Rhinos.

    Even though the animals are growing in numbers, the return of tourists has been slow hence, it remains a wonderfully isolated and peaceful place to visit, with several very nice camps as well!
  8. Mountie's Avatar
  9. Mountie's Avatar
    Somali bandits?

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