High Amazon or lower Amazon, how do you choose ?

[mbrook]

Hello there,

Preparing my trip to Ecuador, I pondered that question for a long time, there is nowhere, in a guidebook that will give a good answer to that question. Both are Amazonia, only the altitude is slightly different, so how do you chose?
After debating the question with my family before our trip, we finally decided not to chose and do both, so here is a short summary of what the two places were like... it could be helpful for anyone having the same dilemma :

We went to the Napo Wildlige in lower Amazon, and Hamadryade Lodge in higher Amazon and we loved both, they offered a great experience of the Amazon, yet they are very different;

Hamadryade Lodge is in the Higher amazon, about 500mts so it's not yet really high amazon, but neither it is the low amazon where the Napo wildlife is.
The jungle around is the same, so thick it's sometimes impossible to get through, but the climates are a little different. personnaly I prefered the climate at Hamadryade Lodge, it's mild, not too hot, not too humid, so it's nicer when you go hiking in the jungle.
Also, because of the little altitude, water keeps going down, so no swamps, and I've got to tell you, when you go through the jungle, it's nice not to have swamps to cross or go around. The ground is sometimes more rocky and you can walk a little easier (just a little, mud is still present everywhere).
And water going down also means whitewater rivers, which is nice, it's a possibility to do some amazing rafting days (I definitly recommend the class IV rivers, beautiful canyons, waterfalls, suspended bridges,... amazing).

In the lower amazon, you can go on amazingly calm waterways to go and see wildlife, it's incredible, it's like everything is standing still, and suddenly the mouvments you see will be a group of monkeys or large birds. They seem to be everywhere, you don't always see them, but you hear them all the time. It's easier to see animals in that sector I guess, I've seen just as many birds at Hamadryade (actually without even leaving the Lodge), but I've seen more monkeys arounf the Napo wildlife. Of course, there are some animals that you see only in these parts of the amazon, such as aligators (the guide said that they cannot survive in running waters), piranas, or such;

well I hope that this gives you an idea about the difference. the main point being this, it's different. But to be honest, Hamadryade Lodge offers a few other advantages that are interesting : it's easier access, no detour needed (it took us an entire day just to reach the Napo, first with the plane, and then hours in a canoe ; while we just stop at Hamadryade on the way between Quito and banos), no mosquitoes (and then no malaria),... but I agree those are only secondary things

best of luck and have a good trip

[ashfalc]

Hello mbrook,

indeed we had the same dilemma ! when I went with my parents to Ecuador, we were looking at these 2 options. Because a large portion of the trip was kept for the Galapagos islands, we couldn't do like you, and we had to choose. I guess that it is a logisitic issue that helped us decide between the two Amazonian regions, since the High Amazon is easily accessible from the Quito-Banos road (a bit less than 4 hrs to reach the amazon on that side, against a full day travelling with plane and canoe on the other side), we opted for the quickest and cheapest option.
We stayed at Hamadryade Lodge for two nights before we moved to higher parts of the country. We too absolutly loved it, and two days was barely enough, but I'm really pleased to know that we didn't miss too much chosing like we did.
thank you

[kyshel]

I've done the Brasilian Amazon--Rio Negro twice now. Totally different from your info--thank you very much for your contribution. Last time was via Manaus, Ariau Towers (LL property) and yes, I have asked LL to add Napo Lodge--maybe your post will encourage them...Thanks again. Do you have detailed review on tripadvisor? I'd love to read more.

[omegaet]

mbrook....we bought an Amazon package from Luxury Link several years ago and spent a week at Kapawi Ecolodge Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve - Ecuador Ecolodge in the Amazon Rainforest in Ecuador

That was an amazing experience...somewhat more primitive (at least from the photos on the two web sites) than the two places you enjoyed.

Maybe you can post some pix for all of us to enjoy!

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I did the Amazon in Ecuador - flew to Coca and was in the Napo area on a houseboat near the Colombia border - wonderful experience and not as crowded as the Brazilian Amazon or Northern peru Amazon regions. Went during January and the weather was great.

We did the southern Amazon in Peru - flew to Puerto Maldonado and stayed near Sandoval lake where the giant otters are - this was also an amazing experience. Went around Easter time a few years ago in April and the weather in this part of Peru was perfect - not so perfect in the Cuzco/Machu Pichu area - rainy in the highlands