In the summer of 2000, my best friend and I backpacked through New Zealand and Australia. We decided to make Fraser Island, off the coast of Brisbane and heralded as the world's largest sand island, a stop on our travels. At the time it was cheap livin' so we were camping. We took a ferry and trekked to our campsite, enjoying the scenery but worrying that daylight would run out before we got to our spot.

We enjoyed our first evening, feasting on dried noodles reconstituted with hot

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