Chef Fergus Henderson’s Favorite London Restaurants

Chef Fergus Henderson dishes on his top London restaurants.

By Peter Jon Lindberg

London chef Fergus Henderson—who revived “nose-to-tail” cooking at his St. John restaurant—just debuted the 15-room St. John Hotel (doubles from $320), in the West End. We asked for his top local haunts across the city.

Cock Tavern: This subterranean den at Smithfield Market opens at 6 a.m. to feed a ravenous crowd of butchers and night traders. The kitchen is known for its deviled lamb’s kidneys. Breakfast for two $19.

Golden Heart: Run by Sandra Esqulant since 1979, the Shoreditch tavern has an affectionate house terrier and a loyal clientele. “Sandra is a force of nature,” Henderson says. “She’ll drop some port into your pint of Guinness—that really sorts you out.” Drinks for two $10.

The Hope: This spot is a workaday hole-in-the-wall. Despite or maybe because of that, Henderson loves the place. “They have a very good hot sausage with English mustard.” Lunch for two $36.