London Articles & Reviews
Chef Fergus Henderson’s Favorite London Restaurants
Chef Fergus Henderson dishes on his top London restaurants.
By Peter Jon Lindberg
London chef Fergus Henderson—who revived “nose-to-tail” cooking at his St. John restaurant—just debuted the 15-room†St. John Hotel†(doubles from $320),†in the West End. We asked for his top local haunts across the city.
Cock Tavern:†This subterranean den at Smithfield Market opens at 6 a.m. to feed a ravenous crowd of butchers and night traders. The kitchen is known for its deviled lamb’s kidneys.†Breakfast for two $19.
Golden Heart:†Run by Sandra Esqulant since 1979, the Shoreditch tavern has an affectionate house terrier and a loyal clientele. “Sandra is a force of nature,” Henderson says. “She’ll drop some port into your pint of Guinness—that really sorts you out.”†Drinks for two $10.
The Hope:†This spot is a workaday hole-in-the-wall. Despite or maybe because of that, Henderson loves the place. “They have a very good hot sausage with English mustard.”†Lunch for two $36.